This “barren rock” transformed itself into a world-class city by adopting the mantra of “constant change.”
In this episode, uncover Hong Kong’s disappearing neon glow, discover the last remaining master of freshly handmade fishballs, and explore the intricate art of bamboo deities.
Narrated by Will Yun Lee.
“Maker of Gods”
The Hungry Ghost Festival is a traditional Taoist and Buddhist event. In Hong Kong, it begins on the 14th day of the seventh month of the lunar calendar. It is believed that for an entire month, the suffering spirits of the deceased journey from the lower realm to haunt the living in search of freedom. These ghosts are the ancestors of those who forgot to pay tribute to them after they died or spirits who were never given a proper send-off.
In an effort to absolve the sufferings of the dead, ceremonial food gifts, incense burnings and the burning of papier-mâché items such as “Hell” money, clothes, and other goods are offered up.
At the center of these rituals, overlooking all that goes on, stands the fierce, 20 foot tall King of Ghosts, the leader of all the spirits returning for vengeance.
The King of Ghosts
But where did this towering, brutal King of Ghosts and his smaller minions come from?
In Hong Kong, only three people achieve this level and quality of craftsmanship. That small circle of artisans includes Bill Chau, who has carefully crafted these deities for more than 20 years.
Master craftsman Bill Chau in his workshop
Created completely by hand, his technique is a combination of intricate bamboo framing and artistic papier-mâché.
Master craftsman Bill Chau
Journey with Mr. Chau as he reveals the challenges in creating these one-of-a-kind masterpieces and explores what threatens the mighty King of Ghosts.
“Balls to the Wall”
Hong Kong people love to eat. And on almost any street corner, you can find a tiny, noisy noodle shop. It’s the perfect place for inexpensive, comfort food. And a key element of these heart-warming soup dishes is… fishballs.
Freshly made fishball soup
Now… fishballs are not disappearing. Factories churn out huge mass-produced quantities every day. So what is vanishing?
Meet 78-year-old Sifu Ha Fan Ming.
Every day Sifu Ha creates his fishballs from scratch using only fresh fish
For nearly fifty years, seven days a week, Sifu Ha has been creating these delectable morsels by hand from fresh fish. That’s right… by hand… and from fresh fish… every day.
Arriving at his workshop at 6 AM sharp, he allows himself only two days off per year. These mouth-watering delicacies are sold in his noodle shop around the corner.
Sifu Ha lifts out a homemade fish cake from the wok. It’s another specialty along with his fishballs. But for how much longer?
Sifu Ha discloses what it takes to create these tidbits from scratch, the challenges that lay ahead and whether it’s possible to maintain a freshly handmade fishball in a prepackaged fast-food world.
“Neon Afterglow”
Hong Kong’s mesmerizing neon signs
The one constant in Hong Kong is change. So choosing a single image of the place is difficult. But nothing conjures up a picture of Hong Kong like its mesmerizing neon lights. And all of that is about to end.
Neon signs were first introduced to Hong Kong in the 1920s. But it wasn’t until the 1950s that they truly made their mark. The sign’s glowing colors popped up everywhere. Large manufacturers like the Neco Neon Company and the Cathay Neon Light Company competed against numerous smaller workshops and the race was on. Each decade saw bigger, bolder, wilder designs and applications.
An old sketch that provided the foundation for the (now defunct) company’s neon sign
Today, only a handful of companies remain… including the Nam Wah Neonlight & Electrical Manufacturing Company. At its peak, the company employed forty neon craftsmen. Now, there are only seven… four fulltime and three part-time.
Veteran neon craftsman Lau Wan hard at work
Veteran craftsman Lau Wan takes us on a journey to discover what happened to neon’s haunting spell.
Can Hong Kong’s love affair with neon continue? Why is the industry disappearing? What does the future hold?
An old neon sign sketch for the defunct Chantecler Bar Night Club
It’s all revealed in Episode 1 – Hong Kong: Part 1 of “Vanishing ASIA.”