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South Korea

Known as the “Land of the Morning Calm”, it’s the last thing you feel as South Korea plunges itself into the forefront of technology and the modern world. The result? It struggles to hold onto 5,000 years of culture and traditions.

In this episode, savor the soulful sounds of a handcrafted haegeum, discover the transformation of the classic hanbok into high fashion and explore hanok, traditional Korean houses.

Narrated by Russell Wong.

Segment 1

“Between Two Strings”

Down a narrow lane, on the way to a park, Ms. Song Eun-han performs for passers-by. 

Ms. Song Eun-han performing in public.

 

Her instrument – a haeguem.

Her music – soulful.

 

 

Amongst the audience would certainly be Ok Jae-won, the youngest and only female traditional haegeum maker in South Korea, if not the world. Her workshop is only one of ten remaining in the country.

 

“Most Koreans don’t even know what a haegeum maker is.” – Ok Jae-won (Haegeum maker)

 

 

 

According to Ms. Ok, most haeguem makers are in their 60s and 70s. And all of them were originally wood craftsmen, not instrument makers.

Haegeum raw materials

With the haegeum, learning the basics is easy. But it takes a lifetime to perfect.

Renowned for its silky, sad sound, the haegeum is created entirely by hand… a process that dates back over one thousand years.

Due to Western influences, this unique instrument has fallen out of favor. It has become almost forgotten.

However, for those devoted to the haegeum, there exists a fiery passion for the instrument.

Ms. Ok Jae-won selects bamboo for the haegeum’s neck

 

“I imagined myself as a grandmother and looking back, asked what I did in life? I could only see myself making haegeums.” – Ok Jae-won

 

 

 

Haegeum player – Ms. Song Eun-han

“By playing on the street, I can spread the haegeum and its music to the people. They can discover it.” – Ms. Song Eun-han (Haegeum performer)

 

Ms. Ok and Ms. Song represent the next generation of Korean artists.

But can their passion determine the future of traditional culture and music in South Korea?

This segment explores the dilemma and challenges facing artisans like Ms. Song and Ms. Ok.

[Listen to a sample of Ms. Song performing ‘Arirang,’ a centuries old traditional Korean folk tune, on the haegeum on the streets of Seoul.]

https://vanishingasia.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/Song_Eun-han_performs_Arirang_on_the_haegeum_outdoors_in_Seoul_320_CLIP.mp3

Segment 2

“All Natural”

Seoul stands as a testament to man’s desire to reach skyward. New skyscrapers and high-rise buildings are everywhere. Almost everyone lives in dense, looming towers.

But nestled amongst the urban sprawl are clusters of traditional Korean houses… or hanoks. These are single story, wooden structures… and traditionally adorned with thatch or clay roofs.

A hanok neighborhood

As the country modernized, the hanok became outdated. Overlooked. Even a sign of poverty.

Demolition of entire neighborhoods began in the 1960s.

Master carpenter Choi Sum-ok

 

“There are no statistics. But back then 90 to 95% of all structures were hanoks. Almost everything.” – Choi Sum-ok (Master carpenter)

 

 

For over forty years, Master Carpenter Choi Sum-ok has been racing to preserve these unique Korean homes.

Hanok topping off ceremony

 

“There are about 3,500 remaining throughout the entire city. But in this area, only about 350 are left.” – Choi Sum-ok

 

Mr. Choi renovates these hanoks by hand and uses traditional Korean carpentry methods. It’s all interlocking, tongue and groove design. Everything fits tightly together. Beams and posts won’t separate. Nails are never used.

Hand planing a support beam

But with property prices reaching the stratosphere, is it possible for these small single story houses to survive? Is there a future for the hanok?

These questions and more are explored with Mr. Choi.

 

Segment 3

“A Stitch In Time”

Women dressed in hanbok outfits

On any given weekend, the palaces in Seoul are filled with visitors – both local and foreign.

One thing stands out. Many of these visitors are dressed in hanbok, the traditional Korean costume typically worn on special occasions.

Tourists from all over Asia flock to rental shops to get fitted with the entire ensemble – hair, handbag, shoes and of course, the elaborate outfit.

Their goal?

For a brief moment, they will feel Korean. And all of it is captured in photos and selfies for lasting memories.

Empress Sunjeong of the Korean Empire – dressed in a royal hanbok (circa 1909)

 

But the hanbok was not always a tourist costume.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This traditional attire was everyday clothing for hundreds of years.

 

 

Then in the 20th Century, the hanbok became a casualty of the country’s modernization. The traditional clothing was cast aside for a more Western-style wardrobe.

 

In the business for more than 40 years, renowned hanbok designer Park Sul Nyeo, is considered the guardian of the hanbok tradition.

Renowned hanbok designer Park Sul Nyeo adjusts the elegant wardrobe

Starting from humble beginnings, Ms. Park is at the pinnacle of the hanbok world. Her revered designs and hanbok creations are one-of-a-kind event ensembles.

For Ms. Park, a woman does not wear a hanbok. Instead, the hanbok envelops her. The two become one. It is the epitome of femininity in traditional Korean culture.

 

“Yes, the hanbok is flamboyant. But when you wear it, it requires you to move differently… more modestly. More subtle. It affects your behavior.” – Ms. Park Sul Nyeo (Hanbok Designer)

 

 

 

 

Clearly Ms. Park continues to uphold centuries old traditions with her special event creations.

But does this mean that the hanbok as daily fashion is extinct?    

Fashion designer Sun Kyung-ki

At the ripe old age of 26, Ms. Sun Kyung-ki runs a tiny shop in the trendiest part of town. Ms. Sun creates clothing for everyday people for everyday life – all based on the hanbok’s classical roots.

It is the hanbok – reimagined.

Fashion designer Sun Kyung-ki fits customer Vivian Wu in her new hanbok-inspired clothes 

“Even though people consider it a dying business, I want to give it strength to grow, to revive it… a rebirth.” – Ms. Sun Kyung-ki (Fashion Designer)

No doubt the hanbok will remain the outfit for formal occasions.

But can it regain its popularity as everyday wear?

Or is it a fad that will be tossed aside during the next fashion cycle?

Or will it forever be just a tourist costume?

All is revealed in Episode 8 – South Korea of “Vanishing ASIA.”

Vanishing A S I A — The journey begins.

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